The house was totally empty at the time so very little dust. I wish I knew as my new house has bamboo floors that could use some help. Any idea? Apparently minwax mislabeled their cans!!!!! Nothing to rough. On any sanding machine do not recommend any sanding paper at all. Just use the mop head without the handle. The sandpaper wraps around it perfectly in either direction, just recommend a brand of sandpaper with the non-slip backing.
Do not think all the shine has to come off, attempting to remove all shine will almost certainly result in cutting to deep potentially removing spots of stain if used. What is the best product to deal painted wood floors?
I have just recently painted the living room floor and am not sure the proper product to use. Hi, I installed refinished oak flooring from LL. I would like to clean the floors well and simply apply the satin coat to the factory coat. What do you think? Hanks, Tom. Hi Tom, prefonished floors usually have an aluminum oxide finish. Light abrasion and a recoat is not possible, as the new polyurethane will not bond to the aluminum oxide.
Call a professional to ask them to chemically etch the floors with a product called Loba Contact. Then have them recoat the floors with the sheen that you desire. Hello, we have year old pine floors with lots of character. We would like put a Clear Matte finish oil base poly on them. Is there a brand you would recommend?
Also should we use Oil base conditioner before, If so wondering what brand for that too? The color is beautiful but the floors are streaked and you can see every time the lambswool applicator was lifted.
The man that did them is a professional with a large business. Not sure what the problem is? It almost looks like when you mop a floor with dirty water and it leaves streaks on the floor. Did they not clean it well enough after sanding and before sealing? We now have 4 coats of poly on the floors and they still look terrible! How do I correct the white chalking of the polyurethane water based liquid on the 3rd application?
Sand it all off and go back with oil base……. Much better choice, lasts longer, looks better, easier to put on, cheaper, easier to repair if scratched.
Only down side is the fumes……only lasts a few days. Oil based polys are indeed superior for durability. If the stain remains, remove all the wax on and around the stain with floor-wax remover and clean with No.
After the floor dries, apply more wax and buff to a high sheen. Scrape it up with an extremely sharp chisel or scraper. Then apply a dollop of oil-based polyurethane. A burn mark that has gone through the finish must wait for a full-floor drum sanding, and it must be sanded out by hand.
Try No. Let the floor dry thoroughly and rewax. Any burn that has gone through to the wood needs to be sanded out by hand when the floor gets drum sanded. See if the scratch has penetrated the finish by wetting it with your finger. If the wood darkens along the scratch, it has penetrated completely and you must apply more polyurethane. You can sand and spot-apply polyurethane, though you risk an obvious patch.
The alternative is to screen and recoat the entire floor. To get rid of heel marks and scuffs on a waxed floor, polish the mark with extra fine steel wool and hardwood-floor cleaner. Wipe the floor dry and rewax. Indicate that water has gotten beneath the finish and into the wood, a difficult problem to fix.
If the stain remains, you'll have to sand off the polyurethane and perhaps sand the wood itself. You can spot-sand down to bare wood with grit sandpaper, and spot-recoat with polyurethane matched to the gloss of the existing finish use an oil-based polyurethane to patch an existing oil-based finish, and a water-based poly to patch an existing water-based finish.
However, expect the patch to be a different color and sheen than the surrounding area. Consider screening the entire floor or a discrete section. Often are just on the wax surface. Start by rubbing the wax lightly with No. If the stain remains, remove all the wax on and around the stain with floor-wax remover and clean the spot with No.
Then let the floor dry and apply more wax. Buff to a high sheen. Avoid using steel wool, as this may cause rust to develop under the finish. Floors in especially poor condition should be sanded with the drum sander with sandpaper in the to grit range, working up to a grit paper.
If your floor is an engineered wood floor , its top veneer surface is extremely thin and likely cannot be sanded with a drum sander or with any coarse grit paper below grit. If the floor has been sanded once or twice before, you may not be able to sand it again. Use a HEPA-grade vacuum to remove all of the dust from sanding. Wearing latex gloves, dampen old rags with mineral spirits and use them, by hand, to remove the rest of the dust.
From this point forward, keep your feet clean when walking on the sanded floor by using shoe covers or socks. Apply painter's tape to walls, trim, and other large items that cannot be removed. Apply the tape tightly to prevent the polyurethane from seeping below the tape. Stir the polyurethane gently. Do not shake. Dip the brush in the finish and apply the finish to the edges and corners, up to the painter's tape.
Pour the polyurethane finish into a lined paint tray. Fit the applicator pad on the applicator. Dip the applicator in the polyurethane. Brush the polyurethane onto the floor in a W-pattern until complete. Make sure that you are using only an applicator intended for floor finishes. Cotton and other types of applicators may leave lint behind, which can become sealed under the finish. Let the finish dry until it is dry to the touch and hard.
If the previous coat is more than three days old, lightly sand the floor with grit sandpaper and thoroughly clean. Recoat the flooring , repeating the previous steps. Follow the sander manufacturer's directions to prepare your floor. For a ""screen and recoat"", there is no need to remove your existing floor finish. Instead, you can simply ""screen"" the existing finish to prepare it for the addition of new finish.
For all floors, follow the sander manufacture's directions for your type of project. Remove all sanding dust. If you have sanded the floor down to bare wood, or you have a new, unfinished wood floor, and you'd like to add color to it, you can stain the floor.
Sand and prepare the floor according to the sander manufacture's directions, ending with grit sandpaper or equivalent. Remove all dust. If you are applying Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors to bare wood, apply a third coat, following the steps above.
If this is a ""screen and recoat"", or if you are applying Super-Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors over stain only two coats are required. Note: Sanding is not required between coats, but for maximum smoothness, you can choose to sand before the final coat, using grit sandpaper or equivalent. Allow hours dry time before you sand. Do not sand if the film is still tacky. The product appears dark in the can, but dries clear. Floor will bear light foot traffic in hours.
Avoid heavy traffic, and do not install rugs or clean floors for seven days. When replacing furniture, do not slide. Wait a minimum of two hours before sanding, and apply two coats of Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors. Do not install rugs or clean floors for 7 days to allow finish to cure properly. Lower temperature, higher humidity, lack of air movement or application of thick coats will extend drying times. Always test surface for tackiness between coats. Do not re-coat when surface is tacky.
Slight ambering may be experienced when polyurethane is applied over light-colored wood surfaces. Always spot test on an inconspicuous area to ensure satisfactory results.
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